Storyboard

The air currents over the ocean drive the movement of the water, generating waves that behave differently under fluctuations depending on the depth. This phenomenon is known as wave breaking. Wave breaking occurs because the propagation speed of a wave is greater in areas of deeper water. Thus, as waves approach the shore, those from deeper areas tend to overtake those from shallower areas, resulting in the characteristic breaking of the wave.

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ID:(1632, 'ky')

Description

The air currents over the ocean drive the movement of the water, generating waves that behave differently under fluctuations depending on the depth. This phenomenon is known as wave breaking. Wave breaking occurs because the propagation speed of a wave is greater in areas of deeper water. Thus, as waves approach the shore, those from deeper areas tend to overtake those from shallower areas, resulting in the characteristic breaking of the wave.

ID:(1632, 0)